RAF SIMONS
rebel to radical
The lingering play and relationship between a designer and the audience is that which explores our very essence of being humans. Each designer different than the other, but each exploring obsessions that have been explored many times before. Anti-Fashion and its strive for the designer as an individual and expression of what hasn’t been expressed before is where Raf Simons begins his ascent into radicalism. Simons changed the figure of the fashion industry from Americano to the street cast models of Belgium, truly embodying the clothes and whim they were designed for. Simons created a new sense of sex appeal, that was refreshing and played on our intellect as to why exactly we liked these men. It had been as if he used his background in furniture design and created a shape to which both surprise and excite us. From feelings to thoughts, Simons, translated the sentiments of rebellion and difference into something that could be worn. Wearable rebellion. What was radical, but not yet unique was the authenticity of it. Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Ann Demeulemeester, all anti-fashion, yet created for an audience solely in their own ‘know’. A brand for themselves and those like them. Yes, pushing boundaries of silhouettes, sexuality, and culture, but not for the benefit of fashion, for the benefit of their own obsessions like us all and our human condition. Simons radical way of thinking was for that of fashion as a whole rather than himself, yet still holding true to his inspirations of one’s own obsessions. His style from couture to ready-to-wear, and the beginning of the evolution into and entirely new style of street style favored by rappers such as Kanye and A$AP Rocky, celebrated youth and their imagination and creation with individualism and art. While creative director for Dior, Simons boosted the brand into revival, playing on the classic silhouettes of Christian Dior, and combining his low-key minimalism with the maximized femininity. He also breathes life into the ever-entwined collaboration between art and fashion, as with his many collaborations with Sterling Ruby and his use of Andy Warhol. Now working with Calvin Klein, his comments on our culture, and time, continue to play onto style, but more importantly our state within our human condition and obsessions, prompts us to ask ourselves whether an expression of the ideas constantly swimming in our minds is simply a pastiche of works before or the ‘anti’ version of our own human condition.
